Review: 2018 Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec


And with this, we are down to our final two reviews of the year, both coming from our mutually agreed-upon favorite Malbec master, Laura Catena. We don't normally defer to press blurbs in the introductory paragraph, but this time we can't help it. She knows better than we do:
"Catena Alta is an assemblage of historic rows within the Catena family Estate vineyards. The blend of these historic rows, like the marriage of sounds that create a symphony, yields a highly aromatic and elegant wine that speaks for the earth and the vines that have been tended by the Catenas for four generations. The Catena Alta wines can usually be drunk starting at three years after harvest and into the following one to two decades."

And there we have it. There is absolutely no way we'll be able to wait for one to two decades to open this lovely treat. So without further ado... 

Nose: Ripened blackberries right off the vine, a mix of floral notes (violet, rose petal). More dark fruit, but with some time there are wonderful hints of vanilla, Christmas baking spice blend, and freshly cut sawdust coming in from underneath. With more time, there's just a touch of brown butter.

Palate: Still wonderfully leaning on the dark fruit as I swallow, but on the second sip the earthier elements take hold: firewood, new leather, and tea leaves, all pop out as the glass empties. The fruit pushes back to achieve balance but never manages to tip the scales. Medium-range acidity and tannins, and incredibly approachable.

Finish: If there's one thing in which we take umbrage, is that the finish is a bit dry and not long enough. But the elements from the palate remain firmly present and in check. 

There are Malbecs out there that have higher price ranges, more limited quantities, and higher ratings by the most discerning and elite wine critics. But for us, this is as good as it gets. This cannot be endorsed highly enough. 
$50